Friday, March 31, 2006

Part 5: 22nd & 23rd March in Flic en Flac and The University

Wednesday 22nd March

The all-important "Green Island" rum!

Another free day (!) Just did my shopping at the Spar. Picked up an extra pack of 30 Vape Pads for the mozzie killers, and other bits and pieces – including some Savlon, because I have developed a blister under my big toe and, surprisingly, I couldn’t spot any antiseptic cream in the First Aid kit. Got some matches as well, and some more incense sticks. I’m Trying a different flavour. These are allegedly Pot Pourri. I lit one. It doesn’t seem as strong as the previous batch.

The bite on my shin doesn’t itch now, but it is still visible. I am sipping vanilla tea whilst typing this, incidentally. It’s very tasty.

Digressing slightly, once more: I am impressed by how clean it is here. Mauritians pride themselves on it – of course there are some rubbishy bits. One good thing is they seem to empty our bin almost every day – maybe someone should pass that on to Macclesfield Burough Council! And as I look out of the patio window, I see that the groundsmen are clipping the shrubs. All very neat and tidy. It’s a really nice day today. Bright blue sky with a stiff breeze. Yesterday evening it was definitely cooler as well. Not that you’d need a sweater, but very pleasant walking about. Is it still snowing in GB, I wonder?

Not a great deal to report from today really. A fairly lazy one all told. I did some tidying-up of files on the computer during the morning, but that’s about it. I sometimes feel a bit of a charlatan, but then I tell myself that just messing about relaxing is valuable in itself. You wouldn’t want to go trekking off every day by yourself. Not that it’s dangerous, just a bit of a faff! And you wouldn’t believe how long it takes me to prepare just to walk out of the door! First, make sure I’ve sprayed. Sun cream? Where did I put the keys? Go back because I may have forgotten to spray round my feet. Forgot something else, etc etc..So I decided to just accept it for now, and had a slap-up lunch instead: a bread roll with Bresse Blue cheese.

These rolls are in fact intended for hot dogs, but fit the bill very nicely. Speaking of dogs, there are large numbers of stray ones roaming around everywhere. Fortunately they are exceedingly docile, and don’t seem to bother with people at all, really.

After lunch I meandered down to FeF again to purchase two bottles of “Green Island” white rum. All for Caroline, naturally! They are on special offer, and I got them for Rs145 (ca £2.70) each.

While I’m down here I take a few “mood” shots of FeF and the beach area. It is somewhat disconcerting, given the current concern over bird flu, to find yourself surrounded by chickens and the occasional cockerel whilst sitting on the beach. Still, I doubt it has reached here yet. With luck it never will.

I then decide to deposit my purchases before returning in time to take some sunset pics. Now here’s something deeply disturbing: as I was passing the open patio door of one of the neighbouring bungalows to my own, I heard the unmistakable strains of “Oh Suzannah (don’t you cry for me. For I’m bound for Lousiana with a banjo on my knee)” being played on a mouthorgan! Maybe I should make myself known to the “harpist”, and we can attempt a duet – always assuming our two instruments are in the same key. Of course, he/she probably possesses all 12. That would put me to shame as I only have one. In G major.

Whilst at chez moi I photograph a nearly-complete set of coins; for Mr Bailey’s benefit, yet again!

Mauritian coins

The 10-Rupee bears a striking resemblance to our own 50p piece, don’t you think? So one will need to exercise extra caution on returning to the UK

OK, so I’m now back at the beach about to wait for sunset. I can’t believe it. Old “Jingle Bells” the ice cream purveyor is at it again. So he DID survive the week, then! Not merely survived: now he’s in even more defiantly mood, blaring out his seasonal ditty big-time.

I mentioned cockerels a little earlier. You know this obsession some of us have with which way water circulates as it goes down the plug-hole, and whether one sees the Moon right way up or upside down, in the Southern Hemisphere? Well I can confirm another odditiy to add to the list: cockerels perform in reverse. Just as the lower limb of the sum was kissing the horizon, up he pipes. Ah well!

One of my feet is swelling up: the one with the blister on the big toe. I wonder, neurotically, if this is the first symptom of “the virus”. [now, back at the bungalow – at about 10.00pm - I am typing up this report, and I feel the effect gradually creeping up my lower limb. It is quite painful now. Maybe it will be better by the morning. If not, I might consider emailing Caroline a photo so she can check it out with our quack! I feel a bit like half the Elephant Man at the moment.]

I got some superb sunset shots. Here’s one for you to savour:

Earlier today I enquired about glass-bottomed boats and dolphin-watching trips. It doesn’t seem worth it by myself, as the price is so high. You need a group to make it economical.

A rash thought occurred to me as well – maybe I should try my hand at this travel-writing lark after I retire. [Whaddya mean, you thought I already had?! Damned cheek! I’ll have you know its hard work enjoying yourself.]

Back to “The Leslie” for dinner. Still no sign of Mme Leslie herself. It is before 7.00pm so, naturally, I am the first there. I order the usual – a Rum Leslie, by which time, surprisingly, it is beginning to get close to busy, with the arrival of a party of 4-5 folks and a couple. I can distinctly smell citronella tonight. Not something I’ve noticed on my previous visits.

At the table where the party are eating there is a bit of a commotion as a small rodent weaves its way between their legs. The two staff do their best with broom and dust-pan, but it’s clearly a loosing battle. Anyway, the little fellow is probably long gone by now. And after all, we are eating al fresco, and it is merely la nature! I didn’t make a fuss when Clarence (or was it Claude – I forget) cockroach came to watch me eat on my first visit here).

I sampled the Cerf (venison) à la Créole tonight. Plus two beers; and I was too full for a dessert. So just an espresso and home - to work.

As I am walking back from "The Leslie", a car draws up beside me and the guy winds the window down. Is he about to ask for directions? Me? A tourist? Or could it be something more sinister? He sounds jolly enough, though I can’t understand what he’s saying. Then I twig – he’s one of my university drivers! Spotted me walking along and stopped to say hello! Nice gesture, that.

In the road leading to the complex all is deathly quiet, except for the crickets and, very faintly, the distant croaking of a few isolated frogs. This is indeed worrying.

My right foot feels a bit worse now, so I take a couple of paracetamols.

Hark – I think I just heard “Gordon”. So at least he’s safe! Bon nuit.

Thursday 23rd March

I awoke a couple of times during the night with some pain and an uncomfortable sensation in my feet and lower limbs – a sort of puffy feeling. By this morning they felt much better, although I am still conscious of slight swelling in my right. I’m highly relieved though - for obvious reasons!

Yesterday I decided to put a “Vape-Pad” device in the kitchen-dining area. This morning I found this on the draining board:

Could this be the culprit?

Mercifully, it was as dead as the nations’ symbol. So: a) the “Vape-Pad” really does work; and b) I was right to put it there! I don't believe I have ever seen more than one at any given time, so it's not like the place is swarming with them by any means, however. Nor do I know for sure whether this is the chikungunya-carrying species. What I do know is that it is only the females that bite. [Isn’t it always?]

It’s another university day today. The weather has definitely changed. It is much cooler and cloudy. On the way it begins to rain. It continued for most of the morning, but now (almost 2.00pm) it is getting sunny again.

I met several more staff here today, including members of the Fashion and Design areas. I would like to discuss with them the possibilities for student exchanges. I got shown around the department also, and next week I may visit a company.

A lady from another department introduced herself to me. She is a life-long family friend of my host, Souda, and hopes I will be able to act as a go-between to assist in arranging a second PhD supervisor for her at Manchester University. I tell her it will be a pleasure. She herself has never travelled beyond the local island group, so is obviously very keen to gain international experience. One particular reason she wants to go to Manchester is because she has an aunt living in the area. She gave me the address: it only turns out to be in Great Warford – ie about 3 miles from my own home! When people say “it’s a small world” they really are not joking, are they? I have their address so when I get home I will try contacting them.

The rest of the afternoon passed of fairly uneventfully. The rain of the morning was replaced by sunshine and clouds during the afternoon.

It is now 6.00pm. I am sipping vanilla tea whilst catching up on Pete McC’s escapades, when I become aware of a sensation I haven’t experienced without the aid of aircon since leaving Manchester: by gum, it’s getting a bit nippy. But this is the TROPICS! I suppose it’s possible that I’ve become so acclimatised that I am sensitive to even a slight drop in temperature. But I don’t think so.

It was just a passing fad! Heading off in the general direction of “Casa Pizza” – where I don’t have pizza but Mauritian-style fish & aubergine curry - the air is reassuringly balmy once again. Phew – I was a bit worried for a moment there!

The Maitre D and Mme are very pleasant, and are prepared to chat. A group of three “signers” arrive, and they are accommodated with great courtesy. I couldn’t tell what nationality they were, but Monsieur speaks to them clearly and slowly in English.

I ask Mme about the background music. It is indeed “Seggae”. This is a politically-charged musical form created from the blending of “Séga” (the region’s traditional dance/music) with, as the name might suggest, Reggae. Séga itself originated amongst the African slaves who, by way of relief from the harsh reality of their daily working lives, would dance late into the night on the sandy beaches. It was usually to the accompanying beat of a goatskin drum – the “ravanne”. Afro-Caribbean and Latin styles are clearly present in the roots of Séga. Just like its forerunner, the more recent Seggae has become a vital part of the cultural identity of the Créole population hereabouts. Its leading proponent was a singer named Joseph Topize, better known as “Kaya”. In 1999 he was found dead in a police cell, where he was being held following his arrest for smoking cannabis at a pro-legalisation rally. There were, and continue to be, allegations of police brutality. Not surprisingly, Kaya’s music now stands as a symbol for the fight for freedom of the Créoles who, centuries after the abolition of slavery, still by and large find themselves trapped in the lowest echelons of society. His voice can be heard everywhere in Mauritius.

Tomorrow evening and on Saturday they will be having live music at “Casa Pizza”. I know not what style. I don’t care. I’ll be there. Things are definitely looking up!

I can hear a strange splashing sound outside. It’s about 10.30pm now, so I peep through the curtains. The heavens have opened.

Bonne Soirée!

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