Fri-Sat 10th & 11th March
Really not much to say at this stage. The flights were fine. Transfer at CDG was easy because there were free buses between all the terminals.
Sat in an aisle seat for the long-haul leg. A 77-year old Belgian lady had the window seat, and no-one had the middle one. In fact, the flight was really not all that full.
The lady was very interested in chatting, but her English and my French were rather limiting. She learnt her English during the war - from the “Tommies”! I asked if she’d been to Mauritius before – yes: 5 times. Her husband is in his 80’s and I guess is not fit to travel. A shame really, but she seemed like the sort who would have a good time anyway, and will certainly find people to talk to.
Sat & Sun 11th & 12th March
Just a few yards to the "bungalow" from here.
The people staying here before me were an Indian family from Ireland. (Yes, they were. Honest. A man and two ladies). They turned up while Dharma & I were being shown around the bungalow by the owner’s missus and the maid. You see, we’d got here far too early by rights, despite having taken a diversion for a cup of coffee at a posh restaurant overlooking the Indian Ocean! The owner’s wife is a very nice lady. It is really her husband who deals with the business end, and I have yet to meet him. The maid was doing the laundry from the previous tenants’ stay, and she was also very pleasant (actually everyone has been up to now – what did I expect?). Back to the plot – these people were convinced they’d left something behind and searched high and low. They didn’t find anything though. At this stage I didn’t realise they were from Ireland, incidentally. They then departed. This afternoon I was awoken from a nap by a knocking at the door. Slightly nervous because of the warnings not to open the door to anyone unless I knew who it was, etc, I gingerly peered round the corner towards the front patio door. However, it turned out to be the security guard plus the owner of Number 26 (this one’s 42). He, it seems, is the uncle of the two ladies who had been staying here, and they had told him about having left some sort of plug-in device behind. He said it was “against rats”! By now of course, I was more relaxed, so asked him to come in. Interestingly, the guard stayed at his side all this time, even though they would presumably have been known to each other.
Well, I remembered having seen something in one of the wall sockets in the kitchen, and had wondered what it was. It was indeed what they’d left behind. I asked the man if there was a problem with rats, and that’s when he said something to the effect of: “No, no …. the ladies were my nieces from Ireland”. Interesting, eh? So they were expecting varmint – maybe they’re plagued by them back in the Auld Sod!
So I had a very brief chat with the man from 26. Of course, it never occurred to me to ask his name – I may do if I see him again, which I might, because I mentioned to him that I was going to be by myself for a few weeks and he said we should have a drink together etc. I would certainly appreciate that. It isn’t easy enjoying yourself in “Paradise” all on your own! And of course, eating out is when you feel it most. I don’t want to cart my back-pack with me every time I go out in the evening for a meal – which means I’m not really able to take my guide-book or whatever to read. So you end up eating, drinking, and trying not to look as though you’re trying not to look at everyone else!
Ah well, university tomorrow (Monday). That will give me a focus.
The weather, as I said, is fine and sunny. I went for a stroll before 3pm and it was OK walking about. Not as bad as you’d think, but the sun wasn’t too strong because of the fluffy whites.
Mon 13th March
Went here today to get the lie of the land, so to speak. I met Mr Chummun, who turned out to be a former student of mine – he even still uses my Textile Testing Booklet for his own teaching – a nice touch! He very kindly loaned me not only his office for the day, but also his computer so I could make contact with the outside world (though why I should want to is somewhat baffling!).
Not a lot else to report. Had lunch in one of the campus canteens with Dharma – at his expense. I gather it cost no more than a couple of quid. Anyway, I am determined to return the favour. This is Dharma:
Dharma in his lair
Connection to the network was discussed and we agreed to try to arrange it for the next morning, before my lecture. I was given an office. It is fine for my purposes. The window opens and there is a fan! Here we are:
My office for the duration
Today was a big day for the university as they were hosting a visit by the Indian president. Souda, Dharma and Joy (Chummun) all had invites to the garden party in the evening. I didn’t get involved in any of that of course, but when we left the university there were police and traffic jams for several miles leading back to the campus. Fortunately we were going in the opposite direction!
The remainder of the afternoon and the evening was spent here in Flic en Flac. Had my first swim in the pool:
Very refreshing – but you don’t wince when you get in, I can assure you! Later, I tried the French-style place next door to the casino. It was OK. The food was fine, but a bit pricier than the other places. Also, hardly anyone else was eating there. Albeit it WAS Monday; and early - around 7.15pm. I can’t wait much longer than that to eat. I must be on a hybrid of UK and Mauritian time!
Tuesday 14th March
Some of the Textile Testing crew and students
D-Day!! Slightly apprehensive – what will the students make of me?
First though, what about the internet? Decided time would be rather short before the lecture, so it was provisionally booked for 1.30pm.
And so to the lab … Dharma did me a nice introduction. I also introduced myself – in “French”. I think that was appreciated!
They seem like a very nice little group. 12 of them I think; mixed, except for the fact they are all technology students. Several VERY pretty faces (er strike that off the record!). I lectured for about 1.5 hours before we took a 15 min break. In between the scheduled stuff (PowerPoints) we had quite wide-ranging discussions – including me advising them on the importance of the degree as a training for the mind as distinct from simply a means to an end (ie a job – although of course that’s important too). Made the point that a degree in Textile Technology whould equip them for just about anything they cared to choose. The appearance, during this lull, of my “Climate modeller” screen saver gave me the perfect excuse to launch into a diatribe on my favourite hobby horse (mixed metaphor, or?); about how who-knows-what kinds of jobs etc will be needed in the coming years; that industries are changing so fast it is wise to keep all your options open; most importantly, that climate change will almost certainly be the single most crucial problem to tackle. (Here in Mauritius, I guess they have had a taste of what is at stake). So again, the most important thing for them is to develop their minds and abilities to solve whatever problems the world throws at them. From speaking to Dharma & Souda over lunch, I gather that was pretty much the message they had been trying to get across. So that was re-assuring, anyway!
All in all, I think it went very well. Got as far as Slide 38 on Topic 1. Some way to go yet!!
Lunch today was on Souda (so to speak). Same canteen, but this time I had a very nice chicken Korma. The food so far has been excellent everywhere. You might expect lower quality in a refectory, but it’s not noticeable.
2.50pm: where are the IT bods? Asked my man (who looks after the keys and brews up) and he called them. Seems they are in a staff meeting till 4pm. As I have my return driver booked for 3.30 decide to postpone it till Thursday morning. No hassle. You guys just have to wait a little longer for your photos.
Tickled around on the lap-top for a while. Then got a visit from Marie-Louise – a former UMIST (as it then was) MSc Design student. She is still haggling, trying to get a PG Diploma out of the Department. I can’t recall the details, but she is clearly not altogether happy. Anyway, my Head of School (who coincidentally was visiting here the week before I came) had apparently promised to try and get things moving for her. We agreed to leave it for a week or so and if nothing happens I will make some enquiries.
She offered to take me to see places, since I am on my own. A nice idea. It gets a tad difficult to know how to spend the time by oneself. I might take her up on that – although if it means getting embroiled in this PG Dip business then maybe it’s not such a good idea. We’ll see, anyway.
Since I hadn’t much else to do, but an hour or so to kill, decided I might as well pack up the gear and stroll round the campus with the camera. I only wish UM(anchester) was in such pleasant surroundings!
A quick chat with Dharma and he called the apartment owner to arrange a meeting so I could pay some or all of the rent. Agreed on half now and half at the end. So I need the equivalent of £300 cash for tomorrow (at 3.45pm).
Dharma also suggested that I might be able to have a driver at the weekend to take me sight-seeing – eg to Port Louis the Mauritian capital), or to the North; wherever. That sounded like un bon idée. I may go for that this weekend.
Ce soir, dîner à “Le Papayou” – which was given very favourable write-up in the Lonely Planet Guide. Nice, small café/restaurant. Again though, I was outnumbered by staff (by approximately 4:1 at one point). I had Poisson a la Créole (fish Créole-style, strangely enough) with saffron rice. Oh nearly forgot – preceded by un Rhum Arrangé. (I thought you’d want me to try that, Caroline). I could definitely go for it again! A beer, then dessert: “Le Papayou” – the house special. Clearly. Fresh slices of papaya in syrup and vanilla ice cream. Just right. Espresso and l’addition – which came to Rs430, or about £8.00. Maybe I’m a mug, but I felt sorry for them. After all, it was a perfectly good meal, they were very pleasant, and the service was quick. OK, so that’s no great surprise given I was the only customer throughout the period I was in there, but hey. So I left the biggest tip yet Rs70 (£1.30-ish?). If nothing else, I can see it as charity. Some of these people need a little help.
Back here to write this log. (Maybe it should become a blog? Might need a bit of editing first.).
So now to record my monumental expenses for the day (Rs500). And load up my photos.
By the way – they aren’t geckos. Something rather smaller and more like a lizard, according to Dharma & Souda. I mustn’t on any account try to evict them because they are doing sterling work on the insect population! They are also perfectly harmless.
They called them “Cameons” or some such. I can’t believe they meant chameleons because I think I’d recognise those (assuming I could pick ‘em out against the background, that is!). Anyway, they’re too small.
Just watched a rather entertaining news programme. I’m afraid to say they make our NorthWest Tonight team look ultra-professional!
They’re now doing public information broadcasts on how to protect against these chikungunya-carrying beasties. It seems they’re pretty heavy-weight Johnnies with stripy socks, so I’d best keep a look-out! The recommended deterrents are citronella or the herbal oils. Burning coils is another thing they seem to advise. (This bit – unlike the rest of the news – wasn’t in English. It’s an odd culture, this!)
I would think the deet-based stuff I brought with me, courtesy of Manchester University’s Occupational Health Centre, ought to be powerful enough to cope. The only thing is - it’s beginning to run a bit low. I need to find a place to replenish it. The supermarket doesn’t immediately seem to have it, though there are plenty of other anti-mosquito products on sale. Maybe it has to be a pharmacy.
Wednesday 15th March
By Flic en Flac Beach. The trees are "Filaos"
It does. And the pharmacy is just a couple of doors up from the bank. I got some appropriate stuff there. The assistant thought there would certainly be enough for a month. It’s not very strong-smelling, but I guess it is the real McCoy.
Wrong again, by the way: the hooped bullies turn out to be midgets rather than giants. At least, according to la pharmaciste. So the TV ad was clearly intended to well-and-truly put the frighteners on. They must have used a scanning electron microscope to get an image that big! You could almost see the lace-holes in the blighter’s soccer boots. Anyway, they are everywhere, but not to worry. This is probably a hyped-up panic situation of the type we are getting wearyingly familiar with, n’est-ce-pas? In fact, the lady was very insistent that the chikungunya problem isn’t something to be constantly thinking about – otherwise “it’ll spoil you holiday”. And she’s quite right.
(Come to think of it, if you could actually see the little oiks coming, you might at least stand a chance of avoiding them!)
Then to the bank to change the majority of my travellers’ cheques in readiness for this afternoon’s visit from Ravin, the bungalow owner: a veritably straightforward exercise.
I had noticed the Tourist Information office was open on the way past, so I called in. Man (no, not “The man”: “Man” is the name of the lad running it; short for Mani, I think) gave me some useful info on car-hire. The rates look ok. I may go back there when I’ve summoned up sufficient courage to face the roads head-on (or, hopefully, not). I did buy the map of Mauritius. I don’t think there is another. Man was very interested in the fact that I am visiting the University of Mauritius. I believe he has already met my Head of School and his wife - at least, from his description – when they were staying at one of his apartments two weeks ago. So you see – you can’t go sneaking off anywhere and think nobody notices you. There are spies everywhere!
Then back to il (le?) ranch, a spot of reading, and out for a stroll before lunch at “Ah Youn”. I didn’t necessarily intend to go there; just found it while meandering along the prom, so to speak. It was quite busy. (Yes!!! At last!!). I chose a Chinese noodley dish (“Mi Foon”?) similar to one Souda had had for lunch yesterday. Very nice, and, as always, a generous portion – for Rs80. NOT bad. Beer and espresso added, the bill still came to less than Rs200. So I rounded it up thereto.
Now here’s a curious thing: it’s the rainy season right? We had a shower after lunch. Must have been all of 0.01mm, and that was probably the most rain I’ve seen since arriving in Mauritius. HOWEVER, brollies are definitely de rigueur for the ladies, many of whom use them as parasols. So C, you should make sure you pack yours. The lighter the colour, the better.
I got touted again. Oh, didn’t I tell you? The other evening whilst making my way back towards 42 Lataniers 1 (my current abode), I was hailed by a new-found “friend”. A “humble fisherman” who wondered whether I be French or English. If only I’d already got to that part in Pete McCarthy’s book “The Road to McCarthy” (which I am currently reading: see later), I would have known what not to say; although probably, like him, I would have said it anyway! He (my new pal) was at great pains to inform me that practically the whole of Mauritius supports Manchester United (which is true at any rate: I’ve had that confirmed independently by various trustworthy sources). Then came out the sea-urchin pendants and coral necklaces. You’ll know the rest. I did manage to shake him off, but only because, per chance, a German couple had suddenly hove into his harpoon sights and they clearly represented much richer picking potential! [I’m beginning to get into this travel-writing thing, incidentally. It’s having too much time on my hands. That, and the aforementioned book – it really does inspire you: if you don’t know it - “The Road to McCarthy” - it’s by Pete, late of that clan]. Anyway, back to today. Yes, I was taken completely unawares on this second occasion because they have developed what I can only describe as a cunning plan. This particular “fisherman” was considerably younger; more your beach-wise surfing type (if they still do that sort of thing these days). What threw me completely was the presence of his girl-friend. Ahaa! You see? You don’t expect a passing couple wishing you “bonjour” to turn out to be yet another MU supporter (albeit he only got to “Fergie” via Chelsea!) plus side-kick (“kick”: get it?). Clever, eh? I probably fooled neither of them by my assurance that once my wife arrived I may well wish to examine his superb coralware. (I thought that stuff was supposed to have a preservation order on it anyway?) But in any event he could clearly see the writing on the wall in 72-point Verdana, because they accepted that “offer” graciously and carried on their way. (Before departing, he did assure me that Mauritians are not aggressive people. I’m not sure whether that makes me feel better or worse!).
Another curiosity: it’s the middle of tropical March, it’s pushing 31oC (at a guess), I’m walking back along the sea-front when my ears are assailed by the unmistakable strains of Jingle Bells being boldly (I might say “bravely”) broadcast at 98.56 dB from an ice-cream-van PA system (the usual sort – ie distorted as hell). That one’s for you I think, Pete. If you’re lucky he may have survived long enough for you to hear him too!!
I did some shopping on the way back. Discovered my missing hippy youth and bought a pack of those incense sticks they used to call josticks (probably still do). Well I’d remembered that the lady of the house had one burning when I arrived. It smelt nice and presumably keeps the bugs at bay somewhat. (Believe me though - we aren’t being plagued by them here – despite how it might sound!). Although there is occasionally an isolated chirp from somewhere behind the kitchen curtain in the evenings. It’s the same sound I’ve frequently heard while walking around outside after dark, and very often whilst sitting in restaurants. It is rather odd – not exactly insect-like. More like the slower clucking of a little bird. Hmm.
Back at No 42. The owner (Ravin) arrived early. What a nice man. He said I should be able to use the internet through the phone line. He may be correct, but I’m not sure whether it would cost me an international call to dial up BT, so I may get advice from Dharma et al before trying it. Assez, pour le moment, je pense. Well, if I’m going to be here that long I might as well try to get into the lingo.
There’s supposed to be a lunar eclipse tonight – starting at 1am. The humourless, deadpan newsreader said so last night. So it must be true. Unfortunately I plan to be in the land of nod by then. You’ve seen one lunar eclipse …
So what if I did grace The Sea Breeze with my presence once more for dinner? Anyway, I know they take credit cards, which is not a trivial factor. You’ll be glad to hear that I have not yet been toppled as Mauritius’s current reigning champion of the in-the-restaurant-before-anyone-else Olympic event. I did try to wait until a decent amount of time had elapsed beyond the witching hour of 7.00pm, but thought: “Well if I don’t go in maybe nobody else will either.” That could spell disaster for The Sea Breeze! So I went in. Sure enough, several parties arrived within ten minutes or so. You see? If it wasn’t for me the poor place would be bankrupt by now. (I wonder how they managed to survive before I arrived in Mauritius. One of this nation’s more minor mysteries, I suppose).
Well, for the record I had the fish in ginger and, yes, it was excellent. Is this getting boringly familiar? Well I’m sorry, but they do prepare exceedingly good food here. Pushed the boat out and had two beers tonight. And a coffee. They weren’t doing espresso, so I settled for what I imagined would be a normal coffee. The waiter duly brought something bearing an uncanny resemblance to an espresso. But could I detect the merest hint of rum in there somewhere? Maybe they’re beginning to treat me like a local already. So I’ve succeeded at last in “going native”? More likely I didn’t hear his description of the beverage correctly.
Changed my mind about the back-pack, by the way: it’s worth it just to be able to lug the guide book and a map so I can pretend to be deeply engrossed (another Pete McCarthy trick, I recall).
A thought occurred to me on the way back: this is the first time I have ever set foot on the continent of Africa. OK, maybe it’s cheating a bit, but officially this is Africa; and in the wake of Nelson Mandela, the Indian President and Paul & Virginie, too. Who? They’re fictional characters by one of Mauritius’s most - or perhaps the only - famous author(s). They may be disembodied spirits, but they nevertheless appear everywhere; intriguingly - and inevitably - disguised as a villa, hotel, restaurant, or preferably all three.
[I’m getting pretty fed up with this wretched grammar checker. This is one piece of writing where, quite frankly, I don’t give a Barbary ape’s whether it has fragments which I might wish to consider revising. (Oooooooh, sacrilege!!) I suppose I could delve into the intestines of Word and find a way of euthanasing it, but as I can’t be bothered I suppose I’ll just have to put up with it. (Or, as WC might have phrased it: “the grammar checker is an unavoidable evil up with which I shall just have to put”. Hmm, never realised before what dignified initials our celebrated ex-PM had!)]
Well it’s back to uni. tomorrow. [I must stop calling it that: it makes me sound too much like a student – or a “muggle”!] Not exactly sure what I’m supposed to be doing, but Dharma did inform the students that I would be available for consultations, so we’ll see. And the intriguing saga continues… will he finally get connected to the internet and carry off the princess…? See ya tomorrow!
Thursday 16th March
In "The Leslie Restaurant"
It looks like another lovely day. Again. A person could get used to this quite easily. The maid arrived early to do the cleaning, so that was good.
It’s a university day. Looking forward to getting connected; or not. My current driver is very chatty, but his English is about at the same level as my French. I somehow think both will be improved on Sunday if, as I believe, he will take me on a sight-seeing tour.
We “discussed” various things, including where I can get a sim card for my mobile. He has the same model as me, so that should make it slightly easier. The plan is for him to take me to the Mauritius Telecom place in Quatre Bornes on the way back later.
I need a new watch; I realised this when I go to my office and saw that it was showing an hour earlier - and stopped. The battery must be flat. No. The retaining cover was loose and the plastic around it appeared to have crumbled away in places so it couldn’t be closed properly. I can’t imagine the atmosphere here is THAT corrosive to plastic! Maybe I should ask my buddies in CPC – get some advantage out of the merger! Anyway, I spoke to Dharma. He’ll ask the driver to go via Rose Hill, where I should be able to get a replacement watch cheaply enough. I really will owe these people more than one after all this!
The IT man came. He has taken my network card details and will come back with a suitable cable. Fingers crossed then.
Well it seems to work – or almost. I can use Outlook Express to read all my incoming messages but when I try to send any they fail because, presumably, they are not coming from the right address. I may be able to get the man to sort that out. Meanwhile I will use Gmail - but which account? There seem to be millions of them floating around at the moment and I am getting a bit confused with them all. Let’s settle on the Keysmike one, and see how it goes, anyway, That and Flickr. OF COURSE! I can try sending out some pics now, can’t I? Watch this (or rather that) space …
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