Part 24: 13th April – L’Aventure du Sucre; Pamplemousses Botanical Gardens

Thursday 13^th April

Today didn’t get off to a very auspicious start. We had a university driver booked to take us sightseeing. He arrived early – about 7.30 am. Then it turned out he was actually scheduled to take us into the university. We thought that was not correct, but he was adamant that such was his assignment. He dropped us off outside the Textiles Department, saying something about someone being able to organise a different driver for us. I went to find Souda, but he wasn’t at the university yet; nor was Dharma. Then one of the Textile students chanced to pass by, and he volunteered to try and contact them for us. No luck. Then one of the other members of staff. She couldn’t raise anyone either. Eventually, after many phone calls, we contacted Dharma, who volunteered to come in and help us out. He managed to get Mr Bihari (who had met C & P at the airport) to take us to Pamplemousses in the minibus. He wouldn’t be able to stay though, so we agreed we could easily walk between the sugar museum and the botanical gardens, and then return home by bus; which is what we did.

Of course, I had already been around the sugar museum, but Caroline hadn’t, and found it very interesting. It is so big you can’t easily take in all the information, so I actually discovered a few things I’d missed on the first visit.

Like somewhere comfortable to sit! This is in the main warehouse area, which has been fully decked out as a sugar-loading facility complete with a cut-away transportation vessel.

Later, outside, Pete finds some real sugar cane plants.

Pete with some potted sugar canes at “L'Aventure du Sucre”

By now it is time for lunch, which we have in the very pleasant on-site restaurant.

Waiting for lunch at L'Aventure du Sucre – bon appétit!

After lunch we set off to walk the 15-or-so minutes to the botanical gardens. On the way, Caroline took this shot looking over towards the Moka Range:

Looking towards the Moka Range, from Pamplemousses

It probably isn’t clear from this low-resolution shot, but the peak over to the extreme left has a particularly unusual shape (even more so than the other odd summits on Mauritius!). It is called “Pieter Both”, and is named after the man who was, according to Wikipedia, the first Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies. In 1615 he was shipwrecked, and drowned, off the Mauritian coast.

From every angle – and we have seen it from all sides now – the mountain bears a striking resemblance to a man in a cape, sitting on a chair or throne. His “head” is a large boulder which, from this distance appears to be precariously perched on his “shoulders”.

At Pamplemousses gardens we decided to guide ourselves round. This was possibly a little unwise since it is a very large park, and as yet not very well sign-posted. However, we enjoyed roaming around looking again (for me) at all the beautiful trees, flowers and other inmates.

The ancient baobab tree

Royal Palms truly are regal

Hopefully he hasn't got one foot in the grave!

The centre-piece of the gardens is the giant lily pond, but could we find it? Well, eventually we did:

After all that effort, I think a nice sit down on the biggest bench we can find:

But that doesn’t quench your thirst does it? So, it’s off to a handy café for a well-earned refresher. This one is called “Café des Mascarins”.

That's real pineapple in there

That's real "Sprite" in there

By now it is around 2.30 pm and we need to think about making tracks back to Flic en Flac. There is a handy bus stop just down the road from where we are, and before long we are on our way into Port Louis, where we will change buses.

The bus station in PL is a chaotic place, crowded with commuters, tourists, hawkers and staff; even so, it almost seems there are more buses than people! Believe me - you take your life in your hands attempting to traverse it as there are practically no walkways and these buses take no prisoners. Despite this we managed to find our way in relative safety to an empty bus bound for FeF. Empty that is, apart from a sparrow occupying one of the rear seats. Once the bus gets underway this state of spaciousness soon dissolves as more and more passengers embark. After the first few miles it is definitely standing-room only, and we are in awe of the conductor who is still able to squeeze his way through, collecting fares.

Finally back in FeF, it is time for our customary pre-prandial swim after which, this evening, we return to “La Papayou”. This tiny Créole restaurant gets good reviews in all the guides. It is only about 7.20 pm when we arrive there, but already it is practically full. (How different that is from my early experiences when I was in Mauritius by myself). However, the staff soon accommodate us by pushing two small tables together. And once again we partake of a most enjoyable meal.

FeF is such a small place that I am now beginning to recognise several of the other diners, having seen them at the various eateries I’ve frequented during my nearly-five weeks stay here. So now I really do feel at home.

Night all.

Part 23: 12th April – Blue Safari, Capt Nemo, Bois Cheri, etc

First of all, apologies for getting rather behind with the updates! Still, better late than never.

Wednesday 12^th April

Part of the reef, as viewed from the Blue Safari Submarine

Today we are to embark upon separate trips: Caroline will visit the Bois Chéri tea estate, St Aubin vanilla & Anthurium nursery etc, while Pete & I will make for “The Blue Safari” submarine ride and “Captain Nemo’s Undersea Walk”.

We were at “Casa Pizza” for the allotted time of 9.00 am, and were promptly met by Gervais, who had taken me to Bois Chéri the previous week. I was pleased because I knew he would be the perfect host for Caroline – and also because it would give him the opportunity to sample a few more cuppas! He had the Range Rover, which would also ensure a comfortable ride.

Pete & I are not due at the submarine place (in Mont Choisy) until 11.30, so our driver will pick us up at 10.00 am. That gives us time for a stroll on the beach, followed by a drink back at CP, served by Monsieur Hanu, who has now taken to referring to me as “Boss”.

Our driver is named Sanjay, and again is very amenable. His is an independent taxi firm subcontracted by Phillipe Lamothe’s tour company.

Arriving at Blue Safari we are made very welcome by the efficient staff, and given a drink while we wait for the rest of the party to arrive. There will be around 15 of us altogether, split between the two submarines. (One seats 10, the other five). The first part of the experience consists of a short (~ 10 minutes) boat ride out to the moored vessel which houses the subs. This gives us yet more spectacular views of Mauritius and the coast. Regrettably I can’t show you any pics owing to the fact that we have brought only the camcorder with us today. But I did get some great video which some of you might want to see when we have the chance.

On board the mother boat we are given a short briefing. Pete & I will be in the larger sub, and we will be diving to a depth of 35 metres. As we enter the hatch we pose for photographs. OK, I know it’s the usual sales pitch, but as we are highly unlikely to be doing this trip again we decide we will buy them. The sub has two rows of seats, each with a round port-hole through which we should get a good view. Before we set off our pilot, Sebastian, explains how to raise the sub should anything happen to him (!!). Fortunately, he is young and in fine health. We motor across the surface for a few hundred metres to a buoy which marks our diving point.

As we descend the light changes, moving towards the blue end of the spectrum because red is filtered out preferentially. At 35 metres it is still quite light; and this is all natural daylight, which says something about the clarity of the ocean here. Sebastian tells us that if we were to go to 80 metres it would be practically dark.

Occasionally we catch sight of the other, smaller, sub. It is a different world down here. We see small outcrops of reef on which are feeding many colourful fish. We also spot two moray eels, some sea anemones, an octopus (eventually) and a number of other life-forms.

He takes us around several wrecks. These are not ancient vessels but large fishing boats deliberately scuppered as a means of providing a habitat for the sea-life. One of them is Japanese, sunk around eight years previously. It is quite eerie drifting around them.

We stayed down for about 40 minutes after which it began to feel somewhat claustrophobic and clammy. There being no direct connection to the surface, we had to return at this stage.

Back on the mother-boat we were plied with “Sprite” before being transported back to shore to purchase our photos and be presented with our specially-prepared diving certificates! All in all, a fascinating experience which I can thoroughly recommend.

We had lunch at a shopping complex in Grand Baie. I had a very nice four-cheese brochetta – not particularly Mauritian perhaps, but a pleasant alternative. Then it was time to face the biggest challenge of the day – possibly the entire trip: “Captain Nemo’s Undersea Walk”. I freely admit to being somewhat nervous at the prospect of plunging to the sea-bed, weighted down by a leaden belt and with just a glorified goldfish bowl between me and certain death from drowning! However, the advertising blurb stresses how safe it is, and there are pictures of smiling children happily feeding bread to shoals of inquisitive fish. I can’t chicken out, can I?

Well, while I was anxious about the dive, I hadn’t reckoned with what was to precede it: a 10-minute trip in an outboard-powered speed-launch. “Exhilarating” is one word to describe it. I can safely say that I have never travelled that fast on water. Ever. And with little to hang on to, and the boat being frequently airborne as it skipped across the waves, this was real adrenaline-pumping stuff. The sort of thing to have you saying: “again! again!” once your initial panic had subsided.

We are making for a moored platform so far out in the bay that it surely must be too deep to dive without specialist equipment. Still, they know what they are doing. Turns out there are only Peter & me for this session. On board there are four or five staff - young lads all; maybe late teens/early twenties. Very laid back and “hip”; but obviously also very experienced. We are given clear instructions on how to prepare for the dive, including the hand signals to use for “I’m OK” and “Get me to the surface quick!”

We put on rubber shoes to protect our feet from sharp stones – possibly also poisonous sea-urchins - and are fitted out with the leaded belts. We are then required to step onto a ladder and descent until just our head and shoulders are above water. Floating on the surface adjacent to the raft is a spaghetti-junction of yellow ventilation tubes. One end of each of these is connected to a compressor. The other ends of two of them are next attached to our helmets, which are simply popped over our heads and we are to let go and sink to the bottom. I was told by someone that it is about 10 metres. It isn’t. It’s about three. Still, it was quite nerve-racking to begin with. But once we get used to the idea of actually breating under water, we can start to enjoy being down here. Our guide is similarly-attired to ourselves, but with bare feet, and above us another guy is snorkelling to keep an eye on us.

Guide No.1 has a disposable camera, and snaps us in various silly poses. We will later buy the roll of film (digital cameras are not much use down here!) to be developed on our return to the UK.

There are plenty of fish. We are not too sure about the idea of feeding them, but the guides produce great clumps of bread and we don’t have much choice! The fish are very curious. It is amusing to think of us as being effectively in the “aquarium” whilst they swim up to peer at us through the glass; quite a role reversal.

Down among the fishes!

We were down there for about 20 minutes, and I must say that we both enjoyed it immensely. Back on board the raft we dry off a bit, say our farewells, and it’s back to shore on the speed-launch (YESSS!).

So then we made our (damp!) way back to Flic en Flac with Sanjay.

Meanwhile, Caroline had been having a great day visiting the Bois Chéri tea estate and the St Aubin vanilla & anthurium nursery.

View across the lake at Bois Chéri

View accross to the southern mountain range from the pavilion

Gervais had been very keen to go back because it meant he could sample more tea, and they discussed many of the things he and I had discussed the previous week. Apparently he was concerned about Pete & I doing the undersea walk – but Caroline told him not to worry - we’d be OK (?)

Anthuriums growing at St Aubin

Outside the colonial house at St Aubin

They also went to the National History Museum in Mahébourg, as we had done, and C enjoyed that too. One thing they saw which I hadn’t was a place where people still do their washing by hand outside:

By the time we returned to the bungalow Caroline was already there. After a swim in the pool we were all looking forward to dinner, back at the “Casa Pizza”, where I once again had the upmarket fish ‘n’ chips! Pete had tagliatelli and Caroline I believe had the fish curry.

Hanu, the waiter, has a little business with a few friends, running dolphin-watching trips. It is very tempting. He is able to offer a two-hour session, including a light breakfast, between 7.30 am and 9.30 am. This would fit very well for Friday, when we want to go to "La Vanille Crocodile Park". If we set off for there at 11.00 am it should give us plenty of time, so we arrange this with Hanu and Mme.

Part 22: 11th April – University, for the last time

Tuesday 11^th April

One last chance to see the students before we depart.

Our university driver arrived early today – about 7.30! We were more or less ready, so it wasn’t a problem, but of course it meant we got into university ridiculously early.

As a base, we used the office I had been assigned previously.

At 8.30 we re-confirmed our flights home (a bit depressing, that!). Then at 9.00-ish went up to the Testing Lab to meet Dharma and the students. It was one of their project-presentation days today. It was a long while before many of them appeared. In fact, only about half of them ever did. Still, Caroline was able to meet those who were there, as well as some of the staff. She also took the above picture.

Then we went for a little stroll round the campus, had a coffee in one of the canteens, and took a few last campus photos.

When we came back there was still quite a bit of time to kill, so I contacted Vimi and she popped in for a chat.

At 11 we met Souda, and had a nice chat about things. He is going to try and organise a barbecue on the beach for one evening before we go back, so that will be great, if it comes off.

Then he took us for lunch in the usual place. We had fish curry, with Caroline & Pete sharing one portion. Dharma came in after a while, and we all walked back over to their building. Everyone has been so kind, it is difficult to know quite how to thank them all. Anyway, Souda and Dharma seemed very pleased with the miniature chocolate eggs Caroline had brought for their children.

Then the driver brought us back to FeF where we did some shopping – for T-shirts (more), snorkel & face mask for Pete, rubber shoes for him and me, and some more mosquito cream.

Then we got ready and had a very enjoyable lounging session in the Indian Ocean.

For dinner we went to “La Papayou” which was very jolly.

Caroline had “Rougail Saucisse”, Pete had Spag bol and I had “Poulet à la Créole”. Oh, and Caroline started with a “Pina colada” while I had my usual RA!

For dessert Caroline had fresh pineapple & caramel sauce. I had “Bananes Créole”. Pete had chocolate ice cream. I also had an espresso.

Well, that’s about it again. A bit boring, I fear. But tomorrow there are two separate excursions planned, so the next update should be a bit weightier.

Part 21: 10th April – Port Louis

Monday 10^th April

Between the Caudan and Port Louis Waterfronts

Today, after a breakfast of fruit juice, vanilla tea, toast and jam, we took the bus into Port Louis. On the way to the bus stop, Caroline took this immortal shot:

The location is the Tourist Information Centre in Flic en Flac.

Pete & I made the mistake of sitting over the rear wheels. There is precious little suspension, and the frequent speed humps make it a fun journey.

We successfully rendezvoused with Vimi outside the Blue Penny Museum, on the affluent Caudan Waterfront. As we were there anyway, we began our visit with BPM. After that, we made for the market, picking up a couple of T-shirts in a shop on the way. The market was, as expected very busy, and wandering through was a hazard business as stall-holders would attempt to sell you their wares at every step of the way. Caroline bought a rattan basket and some vanilla pods. Vimi wouldn’t less us buy without first checking prices on the other stalls. The traders must have been really pleased to see her protecting us in this way!

We had lunch on the Port Louis Waterfront. I had beignets au fromage, Caroline beignets au crevettes, while Vimi had a ham and salad submarine, and Pete a ham sandwich. Plus assorted beers, fruit juice and Sprite.

Pete, Caroline and Vimi at our Waterfront lunch stop

Then Vimi led us to the Natural History Museum which, amongst other things, houses a reconstructed Dodo. Avid followers of my blog will know that I had been unable to locate this museum on my previous lone visit to the capital. It turns out to be on the opposite side of the street from where I had been looking, as well as being located in the “Mauritius Institute”. This may help to explain things, as I had been naïvely searching for something with “museum” in the title! It is an interesting building with a handsome baobab tree outside:

While we are standing admiring the view, Vimi’s father appears, and we all go into the museum. You can’t miss the Dodo, which is certainly impressive. We also see several other species of birds, as well as fish, reptiles and bats – all preserved.

After this, Vimi’s Dad drove us up to the Citadel, where we enjoyed the spectacular views once more.

Looking down on Port Louis Race Track from The Citadel

From here, they very kindly drive us to Flic en Flac, dropping us off at the Spar so we can do some shopping.

Then it’s home to the bungalow and a much-needed dip in the pool. (Today seemed hotter than normal, probably because of being in the city).

Then dinner at “The Sea Breeze”. Caroline had the fish in ginger, I the sweet and sour chicken, and Pete tried the chicken chop suey.

Along with assorted rums, mineral water, beer, Sprite and, for me, coffee.

And that is about it for C&P’s first full day here. Strangely enough, at 9.35 pm, it is me who keeps nodding off tonight!

Part 20: 9th April – Caroline & Pete arrive

Sunday 9^th April

Pete & Caroline at the Bungalow

I got up at the usual time (6!) so I could check for any messages from David and search the Internet for information on flight arrivals. No new messages.

I find a website for Air Mauritius with flight arrivals and departures. Theirs appears to be showing as “departed”. I should hope so – it’s a 12-hour flight, and they are scheduled to land before 11 am! I think I am on arrivals not departures, but you never know. Then something odd strikes me: all the flights are for dates during August … 2004! I can find no way of switching to another date, so I give up.

Not to worry, because at 7.20 they always show flight arrivals on TV. It’s 7.20 now. I’ll switch on. They’re showing a cartoon. Maybe it’s just about to end. Yes, it does; and it’s immediately followed by another cartoon. So - no flight information. Handy, that. Every other morning I’ve checked Chanel-1, and it’s always been there, regular as clockwork. But now, THE ONLY DAY I ACTUALLY NEED IT, AND THEY’RE NOT BLOODY SHOWING IT!!

This, coupled with the weird thing with the nearly-two-year-old information on the internet site makes me think there must be some kind of conspiracy!

Might as well get dressed and have breakfast. I know when I’m beat. Anyway, I suppose the car will come for me at 10 anyway whatever the plane is doing, so we’ll just have to go to the airport and see what transpires.

I put the washing in, and soon thereafter the driver arrives. His name is “Bihari”. I had not met him before. As with the previous drivers, he is very pleasant. He suggests we call the airport to find out the estimated arrival time of the flight. It is 12.30, rather than the scheduled 11.00 am. Because of this delay we have more time on our hands, so we go to Rose Hill to fill up. (The university has an arrangement with one of the filling stations there).

Then on to the airport – as slowly as Bihari can stand!

While we are waiting we chat to a German man who has lived in Flic en Flac for three years, but has been coming to Mauritius for 27!

He dishes the dirt on FeF; in particular, the woman who seems intent on buying up the entire land area for development of holiday apartments and restaurants; the problem of the “stray” dogs, which nobody appears to be actively doing anything about; and the lack of attention to proper recycling of rubbish.

The plane lands as per expected, and we drive back to FeF. Caroline immediately takes to the pool! They are both pretty shattered after their flights, so we sit around for a while. Then, about 5.45pm we venture out for a stroll on the beach, a lightning tour of Fef, and dinner at “Casa Pizza”. Mme was expecting us, and has very kindly laid on flowers on our table. A nice touch. C & I had the smoked marlin pizza, and Pete the tagliatelle. OK – none of that is very Mauritian, but there is time yet. We’d like to pay for the Wednesday’s excursions but I don’t have enough cash, so we make a trip across to the ATM at the Spar complex. Pay Mme, then back here. I will be very interested to get their views on this place, particularly the extent to which it corresponds to my descriptions and photos. Well that’s about it for today. Rather short perhaps, but inevitably so. Tomorrow we plan to go to Port Louis by bus, where we will meet Vimi and her father.