Photos for Vimi and Family

Hi Vimi, Avi, Jas & Niv,

Now we are back in the UK I thought I would try blogging some full-resolution pics we took when we were with you. Let me know how they come out.

Best wishes
Mike



















Vimi - This one is our other son, David, taken almost a year ago just after he inherited his grandmother's red mini! Tomorrow (21st April) is his birthday, and he'll be 18.

Part 26: 15th -16th April – Last day in Mauritius – BOO-HOO!

Saturday 15^th April

Well, this is it: my last full day in Mauritius. Strangely, it feels as though I have always been here in some ways, and yet in other ways I have only just arrived. I suppose that when I eventually return home it will be as though I had never been away. But I hope I am wrong.

Anyway, because our flight is not due to leave until 10.30 this evening, there is still one more day to enjoy. We will be spending it with our new-found friends, Vimi, and her family: husband Avi, son Jasvin, and daughter Nivriti. They will be collecting us at the Spar complex in Flic en Flac. They live in Flacq, which is a region on the eastern side of the island and as such, an area we have not yet visited.

While we are waiting, and just for old-time’s sake, we snap some more familiar scenes:

The dhal puri kiosk, near the Spar complex

Looking towards the Spar from behind the kiosk

Pete & Mike making for the Spar

Shortly after 10.00 am Vimi and her family arrive. It is a bit of a squeeze as they have both children with them. I sit in the front to begin with, but later Pete doesn’t feel too good, so we transfer him to the front. They take us behind Port Louis, and up to the top of the plateau, close to a tiny village called Les Mariannes, where we stop to admire the view and take some more pics – among the pineapples:

View North. Coin de Mire is just visible on the horizon

Looking north, we can just about make out Coin de Mire, which I had seen previously on my visit to Cap Malheureuse. The sign over to the right reads: “Good bye”. How appropriate, as this is our last day in Mauritius.

We then head down the windy road past La Nicolière reservoir, and eventually to the beach at Bel Mare.

Vimi describes the sand here as white, soft, and as fine as semolina! It certainly is, and the sea is so blue. Even bluer than on the west coast; and with fewer rocks and stones, it is an ideal place for toddlers to splash around in safety.

Come on - get your feet wet, C!

Purchasing fresh pineapple and mango

Jasvin makes like a gecko!

Pete and Avi brave the ocean

Then Vimi and Avi produce a superb lunch from the car boot, including samosas, lots of other delicious snacks, and chicken biriyani. Yummy!

Afterwards, they take us to see their lovely home in Bel Air. They are about 500 metres from the sea, of which they get a brilliant view from their second floor balcony.

Just time for a drink and yet more snacks, and we have to make tracks back to Flic en Flac. We have arranged to meet Mr Ravin, the owner, in order to settle the bill for the bungalow.

Vimi and Avi are so kind, and we are sad to see them leave. But we will certainly meet them again, because they intend to come over to Manchester as soon as it can be organised.

Mr Ravin arrives and gives us some copies of his CD ROM, advertising the apartment, which we gladly agree to distribute when we return home. It has been perfect accommodation for our needs, and I can thoroughly recommend it to anyone. The bill settled, our driver for the airport arrives. It turns out to be Pravin, who had met me originally all those week ago, and who had accompanied me on several trips. We get to the airport all too soon, and say our goodbyes to Pravin. I believe both he and I were holding back a few tears. Sounds daft, perhaps, but everyone here has been so warm and friendly that it is hard to leave. Still, there is no choice, and we get checked in for the long flight back to Paris Charles de Gaulle, a long wait, and a short hop back to Manchester.

The flight left more or less on time (10.30pm), but took ages to reach cruising altitude. Before leaving, we were told that French Air Traffic regulations required the cabin be sprayed. So they went up and down with hand-held sprays which, I guess, contained anti-mosquito stuff.

There had been some problems on the tarmac – something to do with the cabin lights not going out properly. (It is an aviation regulation that cabin lights have to be dimmed for take-off.). That got sorted out, but as soon as we were underway the in-flight entertainment packed up. They were never able to fix it. Anyway, it being an overnight flight, an attempt at sleep seemed like a more useful activity. The meal was good, though. Typically Mauritian.

Sunday 16^th April

Didn’t notice Sunday arrive. Not sure where we would have been. Possibly just over the east coast of Africa. Of course we were two hours ahead of Paris time, so watches would have to be put back. [Easter Sunday, too; and as I write this, that old feeling of time having been suspended returns. Surely Easter had to have been months ago? Christmas is not even a dim memory to me now.]

There was rather a lot of turbulence throughout the 12 hours, so by the end, Caroline was feeling distinctly woozy. To cap it all, even though this was a long-haul flight, we were deposited miles out from the terminal building and had to be bussed in. This took absolutely ages and ages. It was crowded with people, there was practically no air, and Caroline was feeling worse by the minute. I think she all but passed out at one stage. And of course there is no obvious means of communication with the driver, who is safely behind a bullet-proof glass screen; understandably, perhaps; but it really angers me, this sort of thing. You’d think it would be obvious to anyone that people having just walked off a 12-hour flight would be feeling pretty groggy. There were families with very small children – some still in nappies. But I guess that is what we have come to expect. Outside though it was cold, the sky was grey and it was raining in a very Mancunian way. Odd, because this was Paris.

The Manchester flight was, by comparison, much more comfortable, and bang on-time. Also, we walked straight into the terminal building – as one does at civilised airports.

All our bags arrived too! Then it was through the Green Channel (to match our three bottles of Green Island rum), out through the doors, into a taxi, and soon we were back at good old Ashworth Park. And, as a special favour, the sun was shining brightly by the time we got home. A little bit of Mauritius to make us feel welcome.

The place didn’t appear as strange as I had been anticipating. It normally does, even after a two-week holiday. And it was hard to grasp that just a few hours previously we had been playing on the beach at Bel Mare with Vimi’s family.

Now, as I write the final few sentences, it is even harder to think back to when I had first decided to start writing daily reports of my visit to Mauritius. There were certainly times when I felt like abandoning it – when I’d have much rather have been doing something else, such as soaking up the atmosphere on the beach. But I am pleased that I did persevere, because I feel privileged to have been able to experience Mauritius in all its glorious diversity. I hope I have managed to convey to you just a little of what it was like; and that one day you too will be able to savour its delights for yourselves.

And so au revoir et merci, Île Maurice. And thank you, everyone I met. Mauritius is a beautiful country, and you are beautiful people. I sincerely hope we meet again soon – even if it has to be in Manchester!

THE END – Thanks for sticking with it!

Part 25: 14th April – Dolphins, Crocodiles and Barbecues

Friday 14^th April

Pete & I got up really early today as we had to be down at “Casa Pizza” by 7.00 to meet our guides for the dolphin trip.

Hanu arrived with his cousin, and we walked together down to the beach where several other guys were milling, including our pilot, Baba. He’s the one wearing the bandana in the picture below. Hanu is on-shore with his arms folded, and won’t be accompanying us. There are just three of us in the boat, including Baba.

Baba and Hanu

Pete just before we set off for the dolphins

Baba produces coffee, Sprite and croissants, which is ideal on a trip like this. We begin heading slowly south down the lagoon. After half a mile or so, Baba has to navigate through a small gap in the barrier reef. This is a tricky business, and he has to time it very carefully, watching for the rise and fall of the waves. I guess if you get it wrong you tear the bottom out of the hull. At just the right moment he opens the throttle and we sear through at top speed. Phew!

Once in the open sea we turn north at speed, following the coastline.

After maybe three miles we arrive at a little inlet where there is no beach, but where the water meets rocks and cliffs. There is a small waterfall cascading straight into the sea. We are the only boat in the area. Dolphins are attracted to this spot presumably because of its relative isolation. We drift about for a short while, approximately 200 metres off-shore. Suddenly Baba points to some activity, and we see our first group of dolphins. From then on, we see them all around, in small or medium-sized groups. It is fascinating how they engage in “synchronised swimming”. We can clearly hear them blowing as they surface then rapidly dive again. Baba reckons there could be as many as 100 here today. Sometimes there are up to 200.

Not much to be said. Let the photos speak for themselves:

I also took plenty of video footage.

Baba asks if we’d like to swim. I ask him how deep it is here. “About 20 metres”. Then no, thanks. We’d rather be able to touch the bottom!

Then the coast guards make an appearance, and there is an exchange between them and Baba. He tells us that apparently today a new law has been introduced prohibiting swimming with the dolphins. We must also remain at least 200 metres from the shore here. This is no problem for us.

Maybe 15 minutes later another boat appears, carrying several tourists with snorkels and flippers. Gradually more and more boats arrive, and there is general jumping in and snorkelling. Someone spots the coast guard in the distance and, magically, everyone is innocently sitting in their boats again. The coastguard makes several return trips.

It feels rather distasteful with all these boats homing in on the dolphins – almost as though we are trying to corral them for a better look. But I guess dolphins are smart. They know how to avoid that.

As it is now gone 9.15 we start to head back to base. Then it’s time for a drink of coffee before all three of us meet once again at “Casa Pizza” for our trip down to “La Vanille” crocodile & wildlife park.

Today’s driver is named “Alain” and is probably the chattiest driver we’ve had so far. Like the impressive trees we see around here, he could be described as “flamboyant”[1]. He begins the tour by taking us to see a part of Flic en Flac that he is sure we won’t have seen. He’s right. I never got down as far as the "Hilton", the "Sugar Beach" and "La Pirogue" – all huge hotel/apartment complexes. On the other hand, I believe I am familiar with the real Flic en Flac: the beach area behind and around the police station and up to the fish-landing point; the Spar supermarket; “La Papayou” and the many other modest but excellent restaurants clustered around.

Then we strike out for “La Vanille”. Not a lot to say about the journey down. Alain continued his effusive and informative banter, and was genuinely pleased when I showed I already knew about some of the things he pointed out to me: such as the “Travellers’ Tree” – a huge fan-shaped member of the banana family; so-called because if you spear it in the right place you get a supply of fresh drinking water. He was impressed that I had done my homework!

The wildlife park is set in wonderfully shady woodland which also houses its most important feature for the moment: the “Hungry Crocodile” restaurant. Yes, it is lunchtime again! Now La Vanille is in fact a crocodile farm, and the restaurant does a good line in crocodile steaks apparently; but we decide crocs look better alive than dead, so select something a little less exotic.

Caroline at "The Hungry Crocodile"

And the lads

From there we follow the route around the park. Here are a few of shots we took:

Madagascar tortoises: in danger of extinction until recently

Pete with flower. Don't know what it is

Stick insect in the insectorium.

All the insects were dead, mounted in glass cases, but this gives a good idea of the sizes of some of them. I’d put up a few more pictures of them but Caroline wouldn’t like it.

One of several iguanas we saw

Mauritian fruit bat

No, the photo is not upside down (although in a way I suppose it is, since we are in the southern hemisphere!). This fellow was very alert, and eager to have his (or her) picture taken. Kept clambering to the front part of the cage and posing for us. When you see them in full, you can immediately recognise the inspiration for Count Dracula with his cape wrapped around him. Notice his eyes are big and bright. These bats are not exclusively nocturnal. So “blind as a bat” maybe, but not “blind as a fruit bat”.

"Grumpy Fish", spotted by Pete in the aquarium - the fish that is, not Pete.

I won't tell you what some of these were up to, but they certainly made it sound like hard work – as you can probably imagine!

While we were out I got a call on my mobile from Souda to say they were organising a bit of a barbecue on Flic en Flac beach this evening. Unfortunately Dharma would not be able to make it, owing to another commitment. However, here are the others:

“Souda” Rosunee, Head of Department of Textiles at UoM

Souda and Goonesh (right)

Souda again

Goonesh and Caroline

Arvind (left), Asvin (centre) and Jay (right)

Jay

Arvind

Kamlesh (right)

Souda leads the way...

Goonesh, Pete and Caroline

Apologies if I have got any of the names mixed up! Anyway, suffice it to say that a good night was had by all. Good food, good beer and, most importantly, great company.

---

[1] The French name for the “Flame Tree”